salty tart on the tongue

getting everything laid outI came to pickles late in life, needing experience with bitterness before I could develop desire. Sweet foods? No problem. That must be a natural for most of us. I never believe it when people say they don’t like sweet stuff. Super sweet frosting? Yeah, I understand. But how could you not love the natural sweet of fresh berries or best of all, a peach?

Back to pickles, those reincarnations of the abundant cucurbit plants. I am under the impression of having planted a mini Gherkin variety put out by Happy Cat Organics. They’ve turned out to be anything but miniature due in part to my every-other day harvest schedule and abundant rain. Further, the rampant vine syndrome of Lynea’s Gardens. It was a typical case of mistaken identity; I planted what I thought to be three cucumber plants in one area . . . two of those plants have matured into honeydew melon-wheel barrow of harvestbearing vines.

Moving on. Neighbors have graciously accepted some cucumber gifts, resisting their urges to throw excess zucchini at my windows I am sure. And I have set the gas range a-roaring with boiling water baths and vinegar/water concoctions to transform summer’s abundance into food we’ll eat during winter. Here is a pickling recipe with a couple options, earnestly passed along by a new acquaintance eager to share her mother’s wisdom. I just may receive another on-farm visit from this gal, so eager is she to get her own two hands back into such time-honored rituals.

You’ll need three clean large mouth 1-qt. Ball, Mason or Kerr Jars with new lids, and as many cucumbers (cleaned and sliced) as will fit in them. Also: 2 1/2 cups Heinz Apple Cider Vinegar (5% acidity) and 2 1/2 cups water; 12 cloves garlic (peeled), 1/4 cup pickling salt; lots of fresh dill or your own concoction of pickling spices.

notice my poor filling of the first attemptsIn a very large soup pot, bring water to a boil (enough so that placing the 3 Jars in this water covers them by a 1/2 inch). Using sturdy tongs, dip the Jars into the boiling water to sterilize. Do the same with the lids. Then, in 3-quart saucepan, combine water, vinegar, garlic cloves, and pickling salt. Bring to a boil. Now divide those garlic pieces between the Jars, and add your pickling spices of choice and/or dill. Slide in the cucumber slices (or whole, tiny, cukes). Take the boiling vinegar/water and pour it over the contents of the three Jars, filling each to within a 1/2 inch of the top of the glass. Slide a slim utensil down into the Jars to help release air bubbles. Next, place the lids on the Jars firmly, screw down several times. Place the Jars into the boiling water bath and process for 15 minutes. After removing them, allow to sit, and follow-up check to see that the lids popped ‘down’.

I also tried this recipe using white vinegar and green beans. I’ll write of the result when I pop open the jars in months to come. I am curious to see if they turn out mushy (as some other blogs have noted). Might have to do more ’sweet’ pickle recipes despite limited refrigerator space they require.

every last drop

beet and carrot tops get ready to reduce into a stockI know you all love to throw extra food stuffs into the compost bin, but on occasion consider making stock from leftover veggie parts. Didn’t eat your beet greens? Have a sack of carrot tops? Stray sweat pea or green bean? Extra herbs? Throw it all in a pot, add water to cover, and let it simmer for an hour or so.

Such concoctions invariably taste a bit different each time, but nevertheless help you extract every last nutrient from the luscious bounty of summer. Stocks freeze well, for example in sturdy plastic containers. Maximize your veggie bits and pieces now and you’ll have delicious nutritious stocks for the entire year.

Use stock when you cook grains, prepare a soup, make a sauce, etc.

Not your New York slice

anne sifts through the food memories of youthWhat’s quick and easy for tonight’s dinner? The question on many a mind come five o’clock. Good eating from quality ingredients around the house can happen quickly once you get well-stocked and practice a couple of times. Barbara Kingolver’s family of four turns to pizza for their ready-to-go meal once a week; reading her Animal, Vegetable, Miracle gave me the inspiration to master several such fast home-made dishes myself. If someone with kids can manage pizza from scratch, I suppose I don’t have any excuses.

A couple of tips for pizza – canned goodies from your last-year garden are the basic I used pesto (un-frozen from last year) as my main sauce. Can't get enough of that stuffelements for making this work year-round. Tomatoes, pesto, veggies, etc. Keep cheese on hand (or read Kingsolver’s mozzarella making adventures for tips on making your own), and grab oddities from your cabinets of purchased things to add flair – anchovies, soppresotta, capers, fruit???

Here is a recipe for Deep Dish Pizza, found whilst my sister and I dug through our deceased mother’s recipe files. A bit out of practice with menu planning, sister Anne and I totally got in the mood due to the nostalgic memories of childhood flooding our mouths at the sight of recipes that defined out youth together. This reminds me of the freshest focaccia, with more goodies on top.

chopped chard adds great color and nutrients to many dishesYou’ll need : 1 cup warm water, 2 tsp yeast, 2 Tbs sugar (I used honey), 1 Tbs oil, 1 tsp salt, 2 cups whole wheat flour, tomato sauce, veggies (such as mushrooms, peppers, chopped chard, you name it), chopped onion, 2 cups grated mozzarella, 1/2 cup other grated cheese, cooked meat if desired.

Dissolve yeast in water, add sugar, salt and oil. Work in flour, Let rest five minutes. Grease a round cake pan, spread dough in pan with your fingers. Build it up the sides of the pan as best you can. Spread sauce and veggies over dough. Top with onions, cheeses and meat. Bake at 300 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 to 45 minutes, or until crust is done. Serve with a spring salad!

Eatin’ leaves

salad delightsHello June! I’m munching nightly like my lambs on delicious salads. Planting new batches of greens varieties every week, about a 2 ft. by 2 ft. area, keeps the two of us in good contact with crisp leafy nutrients. Check out this Vegetarian Kitchen web page for all the data on greens benefits.

I love a crunchy butter variety, with some sprigs of spicy arugula, and some colorful romaine, all topped with shredded radish, carrot and beet. Toasted pumpkin seeds add a finishing touch. For dressing, I’m all about apple cider vinegar, olive oil, a spoonful of spicy mustard, salt and pepper. Shake it and eat up!

fluffy flapjacks

calhoun would love a bite tooUsing different flours for pancakes, bread, scones, etc. opens up whole new worlds of texture and taste. I’ve been experimenting with atta flour recently; this is typically used in Indian cuisine, and makes one heck of a chapati. Atta flour also suits flapjack recipes perfectly. For those mornings when I’d rather tease cholesterol levels in a different manner than with our typical eggs, I go for these beauties. Have a closer look at the story behind the recipe at Saveur.

You’ll need: 2 cups flour (I used Atta flour, see above); 2 tbsp. granulated sugar;  4 tsp. baking powder; 1 tsp. baking soda; 1 tsp. fine salt; 2 cups buttermilk (goat’s milk also adds a nice, different flavor); 4 tbsp. melted butter; 1 tsp. vanilla extract; 2 beaten eggs

1. Put flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt into a large bowl and whisk to combine; set aside.

2. Whisk together buttermilk, butter, vanilla, and eggs in a medium bowl. Pour the buttermilk mixture into the flour mixture and whisk together until just combined to make a thick batter. (For tenderer flapjacks, don’t overmix the batter.)

3. Heat an 8″ nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add 1 tbsp. butter and heat until the butter’s foam subsides. Ladle in about 1⁄2 cup of the batter. Cook the flapjack, turning once, until deep golden brown on both sides, about 5 minutes total. Transfer to a large plate; keep warm. Repeat process with additional butter and remaining batter to make 8 flapjacks in all. Serve hot, topped with butter and maple syrup and a dusting of confectioners’ sugar.

a real rabbit

First coat the rabbit in flour and brown with some oil in pan.My chicken go-to-guy told me a tale of his rabbit loves the other week, and as a result my fondness for the Velveteen Rabbit story hopped into the culinary stratosphere. Reliant on game meat, Mr. Murray puts aside time each year to hunt for his family. Whitetail deer, rabbits and other critters are the usual goals, but awhile back his buddies got themselves organized for a trip to the wild west. Hulking bear and corpulent elk filled their heads and puffed their breasts (and luggage) as they set out on the long drive cross-country. In the Badlands of South Dakota, they made camp.

Ears popped up, and Mr. Murray took his shot. First kill in quest for large prizes: a rabbit. Dinner was to be had, though, so after skinning and gutting, that most prolific species cuniculus got sizzled right nice over the campfire. Just so happens the boys had some red wine with them . . . and a-simmering it was set, with the rabbit turned about therein. And as the night settled down on that no-man’s land vista, ghosts of bandits past perhaps creeping amonst the odd curves and layers, a verdict was given: ‘the best rabbit ever.’ When browned, pour in red wine and smashed garlic cloves and cook over low until wine is reduced. Salt and pepper. We served over pasta.

I once believed that my stuffed animals would come alive at night, embark upon storytelling hours under the bed covers and whisk me into the next sunrise through a friendly version of the looking glass. This has happened, of course, as dreams tend to, when pursued through a lifetime. Through the looking glass, though, is more different than my eight-year-old self could imagine. Mr. Murray’s story reminds me of the numerous ‘ah-hah!’ moments that cooking brings to life. Be it with a dish of macarroni reminiscent of Mom’s, or a phenomenal bite of sushi somewhere in world travels, extraordinary moments are to be had everywhere in life with food. Sometimes that food is about surviving, sometimes about transcendence. But always memorable and always real.

And for old time’s sake, that wonderful passage from The Velveteen Rabbit: “What’s real?” asked the velveteen rabbit one day, when she and the skin horse were lying side by side. “Does it mean having things that buzz inside you and a stick out handle?” “Real isn’t how you’re made,” said the skin horse. “It is a thing that happens to you when a child loves you for a long, long time, not just play but really loves you—then you become real.” “Does it hurt?” asked the rabbit. “Sometimes,” said the skin horse, for he was always truthful. “When you are real you don’t mind being hurt.” “Does it happen all at once like being wound up, or bit by bit?” “It doesn’t happen all at once, you become—it takes a long time. That’s why it doesn’t often happen to people who break easily or have sharp edges or have to be carefully kept. Generally, by the time you are real, most of your hair has been loved off, your eyes drop out, and you get loose in the joints and very shabby. But these things don’t matter at all, because once you are real you can’t be ugly, except to people who don’t understand.” By Margery Williams

herb-ingers of spring

carrots about to be dressed with herbed yogurt dressingStarter plant flats sit outside just about every store with a connection to home and farm products, right now. No greenhouse to start your own basil and tomatoes? No cold frame? Even worse, no southern-orientated window?? Haven’t even ordered seeds? Go grab some of these 2- to 4-inch beginner plants and give it a go.

You’ll notice that mostly lettuces and herbs are available; these plants are hardy to the current outside temperatures. They’ve likely been exposed enough to withstand small frosts, which we’ll get for several more weeks here in southeastern PA. The following recipe makes use of fresh cilantro (also known as coriander, in reference to it’s leaves) and mint. While carrots are not in season right now, this dressing will go on de-frosted veggies, cooked briefly, as well as upcoming early veggies like sweet snow peas. Carrots, cilantro and mint can all be planted right now.

You’ll need: 1 tsp cumin seed; 3 Tbs chopped fresh cilantro; 2 Tbs finely chopped fresh mint; 1/4 tsp salt; 3 Tbs olive oil; 2 Tbs red wine vinegar; pinch of sugar; 3 Tbs plain yogurt (Seven Stars is my local dairy option); 2 lbs carrots, thinly sliced and steamed just until tender; fresh ground black pepper; leaf lettuce for serving.

In a mortar or spice grinder, grind the cumin seed to a coarse powder. Add the cilantro, mint, salt and blend well. Transfer to a glass jar, stir in oil, vinegar adn sugar. Mix well and allow to sit for up to 24 hours for the flavors to develop. When ready to serve, add the yogurt to the dressing. Transfer to a small bowl, add the carrots and toss to coat. Add pepper to taste. Serve on a bed of leaf lettuce (or without is fine too).

Recipe from Flatbreads & Flavors by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid – one of my favorites!

One pot, half-hour chicken

bowl o spiced chickenPlease tell me you have a half-hour to make some chicken for dinner. No, wait. You don’t even need to accompany this pot-o-meat. Just set it to simmering, and check it twice . . . it comes out moist and incredibly aromatic. The following recipe comes from the December 2008 Saveur magazine issue. On the hunt for winter eating ideas, I have broken somewhat from the old standby cookbooks in favor of food magazines that accumulate in available space. This magazine never fails to provide inspiration.

Similar to the Moroccan style dish previously posted, this Iraqi chicken recipe calls for a spice blend, and is similar to Indian curries you may have already cooked. I cannot recommend preparing such a mix enough; do it in double or triple quantity and you have ready-to-toss-in spices for several evenings of cooking. Plus, this makes use of potatoes and chick peas – two items that you can easily keep in a winter-season minded pantry.

For the spices, blend the following in your coffee grinder, then wipe out with sugar:

1 1⁄2 tsp. black peppercorns
1⁄2 tsp. cumin seeds
1⁄2 tsp. coriander seeds
2 white or green cardamom pods
2 whole allspice berries
2 whole cloves
1 chile de árbol
3⁄4 tsp. dried rose petals (optional)
1⁄4 tsp. grated nutmeg
1⁄4 tsp. ground cinnamon
1⁄8 tsp. ground ginger
1⁄8 tsp. ground turmeric

simmering chickenFor the dish, you’ll need: 1⁄4 cup canola oil
6 cloves garlic
3 small onions, quartered
4 medium waxy-style potatoes,
peeled and quartered
2 bay leaves
2 tbsp. spice mixture (from above)
plus 1 tbsp. ground turmeric
1 tbsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
4 skinless chicken legs (about 1 lb.)
4 skinless chicken thighs (about 1 lb.)
1  19-oz. can chickpeas, drained
4 pieces khubuz al-tannour (Iraqi flat bread),
naan, or pita
1 lemon, quartered
1 tbsp. dried sumac (optional)

scraps ready for our chickensTo prepare: Heat oil in a 6-qt. pot over medium-high heat. Add garlic, onions, potatoes, bay leaves, spice mixture, turmeric, and salt. Cook, stirring and scraping bottom of pot occasionally, until onions and potatoes are golden, about 10 minutes. Add chicken and 3 1⁄2 cups water; stir to combine. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce heat to medium, and simmer, uncovered, until chicken is tender and cooked through, 20–25 minutes.

2. Add chickpeas; cook for 5 minutes more. Taste the stew and season with more salt, to taste. Line 4 bowls with torn pieces of the flat bread. Ladle stew over bread. Squeeze a wedge of lemon over each bowl and sprinkle with sumac. (I skipped both of these steps, and it was still delicious. Never have enough lemons on hand . . .)

Pie for dinner

mincemeat pie, evidently the crowd liked it!Occasionally I defrost more meat than Michael and I can eat during the week. This mincemeat pie recipe helped use leftover goose and venison from previous dinners (seems most meats will do). It’s also a heck of a refreshing dish; the citrus zest and fruits harken back to Shakespearean feasts. Regardless your opinion on such pies, give this recipe a shot. It will delight and inspire you to consider other forays into winter seasonal cooking.

You’ll need: 1 Granny Smith apples, finely chopped; 2/3 cup raisins; 2/3 cup dried currants (I used cherries); 1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar; 1 oz. crystallized ginger, coarsely chopped; 3/4 cup shredded beef suet – I used a mixture of leftover meat (pork, goose, venison); 1/4 cup brandy (I didn’t have this); 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice; 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh lemon zest; 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh orange zest; 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice; 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg; 1/4 tsp ground cloves

Note: Pennsylvania is not a citrus producer, so far as I know. But such being the case, I feel it is okay to use such fruits from our warmer states, with moderation.

For the cornmeal crust: 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for dusting; 1/3 cup2 stone ground cornmeal; 2 heaping Tbs. sugar, plus extra for the crust; 1 teaspoon table salt; 8 ounces very cold unsalted butter; 2 oz. apple cider or juice; 2 ounces cold water; 1 egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water

Place all of the ingredients except the crust into the bowl of a food processor and pulse 8 to 10 times. Place in an airtight container and store in the refrigerator for one night before using. If you prefer a finer texture of mincemeat place the apples, dried fruit and suet into a meat grinder with a large die and grind. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the remaining ingredients. You may also finely chop the apples, dried fruit and suet by hand.

Place the flour, cornmeal,  sugar and salt into a large mixing bowl and whisk to combine. Grate the cold butter on the large side of a box grater directly into the dry ingredients. Work together with your hands until the mixture is crumbly. Add the cider and water and stir with a spatula to combine. Knead the dough 5 to 6 times and spritz with additional water if the dough is dry. Shape into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Roll out the dough on a piece of parchment into a 15 to 16-inch round, about 1/4 to 1/8-inch thick. Trim the edges with a pizza cutter. Carefully slide the rolled out dough, still on the parchment paper, onto an upside down half sheet pan. Spoon about 1 1/2 pounds of the mincemeat onto the center of the dough, leaving a 2 to 3-inch margin around the edge of the crust. Place in the oven and bake for 35 minutes or until the crust is golden. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 30 to 45 minutes before serving.

Sesame bread rings

Ate another bowl of zucchini soup for lunch today, accompanied by a slice of quiche – both of which spent yesterday thawing on the kitchen countertops. Halfway through February, my seasonal eating still depends on propping open the chest freezer lid and sifting through the rock-hard contents (wear a winter glove while doing this). Pieces of torn sesame bread rings helped sop up the soup and fill up my tummy.

Rowland Orr has a pre-dinner snack of sesame rings dipped in olive oilBread baking has largely filled the creative void of a season without fresh fruits and veggies from my backyard. I’ve enjoyed shifting the focus from bushels of peaches to different shapes of flour, water, yeast and salt. And although I’d like to think these baking practices come naturally, I must give thanks for the inspiration and guidance of Flatbreads and Flavors, by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid.

For Savory Sesame bread rings, you’ll need: 1 tsp dy yeast; 1 1/2 cups warm water; 3 to 4 cups hard white flour; 1 tsp salt; 1 egg whisked with 1 Tbs water for an egg wash; 4 to 5 tsp sesame seeds (I used more). Also! Get out your good olive oil and dip these in when done cooking. A delectable treat to enjoy as you prepare dinner or need a snack late afternoon.

To cook, dissolve the yeast in the warm water in a medium-sized bowl. Combine the flour and salt and add to the yeast, a cup at a time, stirring constantly in the same direction to help activate the gluten. When the dough will no longer take any more flour, turn it out ont a lightly floured surface and knead for 7 to 8 minutes, or until smooth and elastic. Clean out the bread bowl, lightly oil, place the dough in it, and cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel. Allow to rise until doubled in volumn, approximately 1 hour. (I place the bowl very close to our wood stove – but perhaps you will need to use a room in your house capable of staying above 65 degrees for this amount of time, perhaps your bathroom?)

Punch down the down and divide it into 4 pieces. On your bread board, roll each piece under your palms (or hold it in the air between your palms and let it hand down as you make your rope) into a cigar-shaped rope 24-36 inches long, depending upon the size of your baking sheets. Pinch together the ends of each rope to make a loop. Place the ka’kat rings on lightly oiled baking sheets, by shaping the loops into the traditional long oval shape (This recipe is from Israel) and fitting 2 side by side on each sheet. Cover and let rise for 20 to 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Brush each bread liberally with the egg wash. Sprinkle on the sesame seeds. Bake in the upper part of your oven for 15 to 17 minutes, until nicely browned; if the size of your oven and baking sheets permit, bake them side by side. If not, bake on 2 different racks and switch the sheets after 8 minutes. Cool slightly on a rack before serving. Serve with olive oil. Touch this to an herb blend also before you eat it, if you like, such as ground thyme.