The blade, a.k.a. the machine

Fair Mountain Farm being a place where the land is worked by hand, we pay close attention to the quality and efficiency of our tools. How fast does it work? How do our bodies hold up in usage? What maintenance does it require? The infamous ‘blade’, otherwise dubbed ‘the machine’ by Tona, has worked its way onto my short list of favorite contraptions, preceded only by a great triangle hoe.

With a super sharp, slightly serrated edge, the blade allows us to cut beds of mixed greens much faster than with scissors; kale, chard, spinach and arugula all must be cut with scissors in order to regrow in a manner such that we can cut them again. But mixed baby greens, dry and of the perfect height, are best sliced with a greens harvester, as Johnny’s Selected Seeds had dubbed it. We use a 30-inch blade and sharpen it about twice during the cutting of a 55-foot row. With one person sawing away, and a couple people trailing behind picking up the cut greens and putting them in bins, we can harvest a 30-inch by 55-foot row in under a half hour.

The trick, of course, is to for folks stationed at wash tubs to keep up with such a pace. When the lettuce is clean, free of sun-burned tips or any tidbits left from previous cuttings, three of us can harvest, wash and bag about 60 pounds of lettuce in 2 1/2 hours. That feels great, after having putzed with scissors on shorter beds of lettuce previously in the season.

Oddly enough, another worker and I have commented to each other about the satisfaction of scissor cutting the other greens crops; we love sorting through the chard and kale, culling big leaves and trimming just enough to ensure that the plant grows healthy and strong for the following week’s harvest. A prominent callus misshapes my right-hand thumb from such scissor usage, but this is a small price to pay for harvest techniques that guarantee months of harvest from one planting.

Omen and ominous

The day began with telltale signs: winds from the east and temperatures in the 70s. Making use of the resident cloud cover, we harvested several hours longer than is typically possible in the heat of August. And then, as if to mimic our late-lunch stomach protestations, the skies began a-rumbling. Locked in blissful ignorance, as all who reside in an arid desert are with regard to water, we cheered the approaching storm, wishing sky-fallen wetness upon our crops in lieu of dragging it up with a pump from underground nether regions.

With the slightest of gentle foreplay, light sprinkles lasting roughly two minutes, mother nature let loose some serious energy. Hail began pelting down, the sound so deafening from within a tin-roofed shed that Tona and I could not even converse. Ollie the dog took up residence between my legs and we continued bagging produce for sale at the Ketchum Farmers market tomorrow. Another round of hail blew through, by which point all hopes for a healthy watering of the garden had given way to mourning the loss of the very same crops. Surely they couldn’t have emerged from such a barrage intact?

We splashed over to the garden through patches of mud and rain, a first on the farm. The rain gauge read 7/10 of an inch, which is incredible for this area. Rows with cover cloth were laid bare from force of winds, and aisle-ways had become ponds, water sitting nicely on our most compacted soil areas. Plants exposed to the harsh hail fared surprisingly well; older spinach, lettuce, kale and chard had been only slightly pock-marked . Younger leaves were tattered, fallen to the ground in abeyance; they should re-grow in a while.

The coming days will task us with additional hours of work, cutting out the damaged plant parts. But we’ll also be relieved from watering duties in the short term. Blessings and problems, always hand in hand.

Faded rainbow

When planting seeds it feels fortuitous to intone sincere benedictions on the little buggers, considering the unknown challenges sure to come about between then and harvest time. So it was back in April when we here at Fair Mountain Farm planted  a row of carrots earlier than ever. With snows still on the hills, but a fluffy bed prepped and warmed, we felt encouraged by the fast-approaching spring and sowed with little hesitation. And then, Spring took her sweet time.

Having just ripped out said row of Rainbow Carrots this past week, due to pre-mature bolting and poor development . . . I have surmised that my benedictions must not have lasted the duration. A long duration it was. On the one hand, we could have had carrots earlier than ever, but on the other, we probably won’t try that experiment again. Next time, we’ll make use of a low tunnel or our hoop houses to buffer the effects of the fiesty Spring gods.

Realizing that our original carrot row would not be spectacular, we re-planted in the third week of June. These plants are growing quickly and should be fine. Herein lies a rule of thumb: when in doubt, really about anything at all, just plant again. Don’t wait and coax too much, especially if your income depends  upon the veggies. For what seeds cost, if you have the space, just go for it.

Other problem solving tidbits: we’ve covered the strawberry rows with cover cloth so as to enjoy the fruits before the birds. And we are now covering newly planted rows the same day of seeding if there is a chance of flea beetle; these suckers are pocking things like Asian greens and arugula as if engaged in their own World War III. What can I say? I love the spice too. Some customers have been so kind as to say, “well, at least I know it’s organic, what with the destruction.” Hmm . . . thanks for the positive outlook?

Get a little bit closer

Yesterday, we three of Fair Mountain Farm walked to get the mail together, as per usual. “The family that walks to the mail together, stays together,” Tona says. I received more mail than anyone else, perhaps a sign that I haven’t fallen off the face of the planet here in Idaho. My secret lover, Raymond James, sent word of financial failings (Why do I have mutual funds anyway? Shouldn’t I be investing in land?), an auntie sent along some information on new tomato varieties, and a women’s clothing catalog was mixed in as well. This last offers some slight moment of feminine imaginings, dust and dirt being my usual trappings.

Our lives continue to meld into such familial moments here at Fair Mountain Farm, and delightfully so. With typically six solid work days together, of hours beyond those contained in a office cubicle, we find a daily vibe to interaction. One of us may be rather tired, another full of energy for a new discussion topic. Mostly, we ebb and flow through the day just as the wind will breeze or bluster. Harvesting in the cooler morning hours sees us eager to get a fresh start, a cup of coffee just enough to scissor through the crops rapidly. Conversation may drop off a tad in the afternoon, increasing summer heat focusing the majority of our energies into the physical demands of the work. Our ‘work week’ tends to end family style, seated around a late evening super table and chowing down after the farmers market, the culmination to our week’s endeavors.

Today Clarence remarked upon the roles we have each settled into with the rhythm of our weekly sales. While it can be convenient and efficient for one person to manage specific aspects of the work, I’m not entirely the child laborer typical of farm families a century ago. I’m here to work hard as well as learn the whole kit and caboodle of what it’s like to make a life and making a living through farming.

So today we discussed some theoretical math, otherwise known as sales projections. Having been a language major in college, I’m generally capable with numbers not in excess of 50. An intensively planted half-acre farm is mostly kind to me in this respect. One 50-foot (by 30-inch) row of arugula can be broken down into serving two farmers market days. A first cutting will give one roughly 18 pounds from half the row, which will be broken down into 50 one-quarter pound bags to sell at market, and various other 1/2 and 3 lb bags for private clients and chefs. At $5 per quarter pound, and with potentially four cuttings from the row before it bolts . . . this is where my story problem skills perform better with a calculator.

Anticipating weekly sales remains a ‘family’ affair, wherein all three of us consider past sales and attempt to project what will occur next. The Stilwill’s depth of experience directs our decisions intelligently, sometimes optimistically, sometimes conservatively. And so we navigate our lovely life on the farm, hashing out how many pounds to cut of this, and what to do about this or that. The integration makes the work feel like a home.

Minute to majestic

My whole body feels as if in training. How long can I sit on the rocking stool, isometrically holding the perfect cutting position for our greens crops? How finely tuned has my eye become, to hone in on lurking weeds? At what angle do I have to walk to support the five gallon chicken waterer between spigot and coop? To what extent can my hands withstand the frigid washing station water (delight in which is improving as summer finally arrives in the mountains)? How long can I remain bent over at the waist doing any number of tasks?

The life of the garden pulls focus earthward, the crops, water lines, weeds, bugs and more keeping my awareness in nearsighted lenses. Sometimes we remind each other to take the long view, out across the meadow of spent camas blossoms and up the lupine splotched hills to the remaining bits of snow on Peak One (the rather un-poetically named first peak in the Soldier Mountains series). Better yet, at the end of a day passed in tending our eager vegetable community, we get out of the intimate garden space and into the majestic mountainscape.

This is not easy to do, and fatigue is the least of deterrants. Ideas, projects, problems, any number of things call to one who gardens and farms the day away. Yet stepping away, completely, in mind and body, is essential for some restful essence of this lifestyle. Striding into the hills finds my imaginings elsewhere entirely, perhaps taking distant viewing pleasure in the abundant wildlife, or the distant pleasure of memories.

And despite the abbreviated growing season, despite the brevity of frantic harvest and market schedules, such end of day moments are to be cultivated where possible with as much care as the hot-house basil. Big and small views, balancing our interactions with this land bring our overall focus into a more perfect vision, combining the ecosystems around us with our little private food ecology patch.

Got my goat

It is nothing short of phenomenal that I’ve secured a source of fresh, raw goat milk from a neighbor, weekly. Such deliciousness is typically scouted and claimed by serious cheese-makers and chefs, yet these foodie trends have been slower to arrive in our little rural patch of Idaho. I’ll take it.

What’s a gal to do with a gallon of goat milk every week? Make cheese, of course. Or, as full refrigerator shelves would preclude, make goat cheese lasagna. With abundant ricotta, mozarella, and fresh chevre (the three easiest cheeses to begin one’s repertoire with goat cheese creating), I was completely lined out for a big dish of layered pasta and goodies. The garden added further color to such dominating white; several stray spinach plants allowed to grow haphazardly yielded a pound of fresh green leaves to layer within the goat. First of the season basil pesto and summer squashes round out interior components.

If you don’t have access to local, raw milk, or (horror of all horrors) no interest in making cheese, then go to your farmers market or grocery and select some cheeses to suit your tastes. But do try to use whole milk for the bechamel sauce; this is lasagna, not a diet plan. Here’s what you’ll need:

1 lb. lasagna noodles (homemade: 1 cup semolina, 1 cup flour,  3 eggs, 1 Tbs olive oil, dash salt); 20 oz. spinach, chopped well; 1 cup ricotta cheese; 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese; 1/2 cup pesto; 11 oz goat cheese; 2 small zucchini sliced; 1 1/2 cup bechamel sauce (3 Tbs. sweet butter, 4 Tbs flour, 2 cups milk, salt, pepper, nutmeg)

Cook noodles (or roll out fresh ones and don’t cook). Mix ricotta with 2 Tbs parmesan. Season with salt and pepper. Mix pesto with goat cheese. Blanch zucchini. Make Bechamel: melt butter in heavy saucepan. Sprinkle in flour and stir continuously about 5 minutes. Don’t brown. Bring milk to a boil, remove butter mix from heat and pour in milk at once. As mix boils and bubbles, stir vigorously with whisk. When bubbling stops, return to medium heat and bring to boil stirring for several minutes till thickened. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg.

Spread 1/3 bechamel over bottom of 9 x 13 inch baking dish. Arrange 1/3 pasta over this. Spread all of ricotta over this, then sprinkle half the chopped spinach on top of this. Scatter 1/2 the zucchini on top of this. Add another layer of pasta, spread with half the remaining bechamel and all of the goat cheese/pesto mix. Sprinkle on remaining chopped spinach, and remaining zucchini. Do another layer of pasta, and spread remaining bechamel on top of this. Sprinkle with remaining parmesan, and some more goat cheese if you’d like.

Bake at 375 degrees F for about 15 minutes, until bubbling and lightly browned. Note: you can also add sauteed onions to the zucchini layers. Salt should be pretty good, especially with the salty pesto and parmesan components. Bon appetit!

Springtime thanksgiving

Since when do ants ravage tomato plants? A second plant in our ‘hot house’ (or heat-loving planted hoop house) has given up the ghost after being stripped of its green at the base of the stem. Clarence gave the heave-ho with aggressive shoveling in an attempt to move the colony, and I’ve watered the area thoroughly. Time will tell if further measures are needed. Perhaps a torching with the weed-burner?

We’re enjoying a slight lull today before summer’s storm of activity; this particularly rainy spring day is punctuated by fragrant apple blossoms and sincerely thankful thoughts with regard to being a farmer. Despite the ant hills, the aphid situations, the cut worms vandalizing snow peas . . . it amazes me how much goes well. The kale and chard keeps growing, the spinach keeps enlarging like Popeye always claimed. The fruit trees patiently held in their blossoms until after the hard frosts. And we three growers keep plugging away, marveling at what is possible.

With each passing thoughtful comment on our work here, the Stilwills are increasingly sustaining a realm of knowledge gathered from their experiences growing with this land. I say sustaining in recognition that the passage of good old ‘know-how’ remains little spoken of in the local foods movement. Just as our methods for growing vegetables are organic and sustainable, so too must be our relationships. It doesn’t get much more organic than learning as we go, hands in the dirt, eyes taking it all in, wisdom gained by growing in awareness of all that is happening. Making our relationships sustainable with those who grow food involves participating. Some come buy at the farmers market, or CSAs, providing a consumer base for the ‘products’; I’m trying to sustain some of the food we eat by learning how to grow it (and sell it, and more too, of course).

Ready or not

Snow dusted our crops in the two-week countdown to the first farmers market of the season. Yet another reminder of growing food over 5,500 feet in elevation. Yet our spirits soar ever higher with any additional degree of warmth, and a delicious, albeit minimal, rainfall graced the lands last night. Stepping outside this morning awakened me as I have never been before; the crisp, sweet smell of cottonwoods in rain forced my mouth open in order to inhale the majesty all the better.

Such a morning makes life inexplicably beautiful, exquisite in fact. Brilliant orioles alight at the bird feeder, and fruit tree blossoms are popping daily. Bind weed once again pervades the garden, though I cannot bless it with such favorable description as the above farm-life observations. So, a-weeding we go, though such a pest will never be conquered.

Clarence is planting multiple rows of greens now, so that we will be able to harvest them by the beginning of July. And so begins the summer of plenty – growing plenty of items, planting them with enough time to spare. Frugal we may be as farmers, yet what you have not grown, you cannot sell. In other words,  we don’t plan as if every last lettuce leaf will be sold. We plan as if every last leaf plus another row can be sold.

Best bites of spring

Asparagus, pea shoots, first cutting arugula, ahhh. Such tenderness. Spring in a bite, a crunch, as ephemeral as a mountain rain squall. Which we had today as well, actually. Horizontal lightening and gray vespers topped the greening hills and shrouded the snow-capped mountains. Our noses hauled our bodies out of the hoop houses for the transient weather, engaging a full body experience with the freshness of spring sensorial delight. Life is beautiful.

Of course we worry in these same instances that we will not be blessed with much more rain. Such is the conundrum of farming at 5,500 feet in an arid desert. Many things, though, are working, and others not. Living in paradox every day, as I said to a friend recently, is just the norm, though I’d like to believe it can be a state of grace as well.

We are harvesting arugula sown a month and a half ago, yet throwing away leaves damaged by a week of 19 – 22 degree nighttime temperatures. The future leaves should be beautiful.

About half our snow and sugarsnap peas germinated, so we’ve replanted in the empty spaces. The verdict is out on whether too much dampness or bad worm action did away with the no-shows. We’ve all enjoyed our first asparagus spears, which are spectacular when eaten raw straight after the knife slices through. And Clarence and I are holding our breath in anticipation of Tona’s magnificent rhubarb crisp. Actually, we measure the rhubarb stalk length daily, informing her that they are MORE than ready . . .

Angle of sprouting

Life is in the details, as the saying goes. And so each morning we peruse the land and sky. Has the newest row of spinach sprouted? Did the broccoli get burned in the 20-degree nighttime temps? Did the bees drink all of their sugar-water? Is the row cover still in place? And, of course, did that tulip finally bloom? The swallows arrive? Notes of observance extend to as many details as our senses can observe.

A newly sprouted seed bed gives great pleasure; positioning ourselves at the head of the row with our heads down low, good germination provides a ground-level vista of green spikes. Whereas carrots spent roughly 16 days in hiding before popping V-shaped noggins, raspberry stalks and strawberry slips provided us with a tinge more immediate gratification as we planted them yesterday; it feels good to have something of substance above ground immediately.

One month till the Ketchum Farmers Market begins, and our early season greens and veggies are on track to be harvestable for the event. The drip tape system is largely installed as well, which ensures efficient delivery of water to all of the crops (versus overhead spraying). We’re a week away from putting tomato starts into one of the hoophouses, thereby turning it into a ‘hot’ crop house.