Influenza diet

reading the 2008 slow food almanacNear constant dream-state pervaded my being last week, as I did battle with the dreaded flu bug. Still a bit of a hack stuck in my lungs. A really comfy bed and pillow saw me through the worst of it, and then some soft English Setter bodies finished the job. What conscious moments I could corral, I spent reading the 2008 Slow Food Almanac, an inspiring and sobering collection of stories from around the world of people taking action with regard to their food culture. a shot of the 2008 cover

One pot, half-hour chicken

bowl o spiced chickenPlease tell me you have a half-hour to make some chicken for dinner. No, wait. You don’t even need to accompany this pot-o-meat. Just set it to simmering, and check it twice . . . it comes out moist and incredibly aromatic. The following recipe comes from the December 2008 Saveur magazine issue. On the hunt for winter eating ideas, I have broken somewhat from the old standby cookbooks in favor of food magazines that accumulate in available space. This magazine never fails to provide inspiration.

Similar to the Moroccan style dish previously posted, this Iraqi chicken recipe calls for a spice blend, and is similar to Indian curries you may have already cooked. I cannot recommend preparing such a mix enough; do it in double or triple quantity and you have ready-to-toss-in spices for several evenings of cooking. Plus, this makes use of potatoes and chick peas – two items that you can easily keep in a winter-season minded pantry.

For the spices, blend the following in your coffee grinder, then wipe out with sugar:

1 1⁄2 tsp. black peppercorns
1⁄2 tsp. cumin seeds
1⁄2 tsp. coriander seeds
2 white or green cardamom pods
2 whole allspice berries
2 whole cloves
1 chile de árbol
3⁄4 tsp. dried rose petals (optional)
1⁄4 tsp. grated nutmeg
1⁄4 tsp. ground cinnamon
1⁄8 tsp. ground ginger
1⁄8 tsp. ground turmeric

simmering chickenFor the dish, you’ll need: 1⁄4 cup canola oil
6 cloves garlic
3 small onions, quartered
4 medium waxy-style potatoes,
peeled and quartered
2 bay leaves
2 tbsp. spice mixture (from above)
plus 1 tbsp. ground turmeric
1 tbsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
4 skinless chicken legs (about 1 lb.)
4 skinless chicken thighs (about 1 lb.)
1  19-oz. can chickpeas, drained
4 pieces khubuz al-tannour (Iraqi flat bread),
naan, or pita
1 lemon, quartered
1 tbsp. dried sumac (optional)

scraps ready for our chickensTo prepare: Heat oil in a 6-qt. pot over medium-high heat. Add garlic, onions, potatoes, bay leaves, spice mixture, turmeric, and salt. Cook, stirring and scraping bottom of pot occasionally, until onions and potatoes are golden, about 10 minutes. Add chicken and 3 1⁄2 cups water; stir to combine. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce heat to medium, and simmer, uncovered, until chicken is tender and cooked through, 20–25 minutes.

2. Add chickpeas; cook for 5 minutes more. Taste the stew and season with more salt, to taste. Line 4 bowls with torn pieces of the flat bread. Ladle stew over bread. Squeeze a wedge of lemon over each bowl and sprinkle with sumac. (I skipped both of these steps, and it was still delicious. Never have enough lemons on hand . . .)

ahhhh, milk

michael pounds one down. I get ready to make ice creamEnjoying another glass of goodness: Natural by Nature’s whole milk.

Pie for dinner

mincemeat pie, evidently the crowd liked it!Occasionally I defrost more meat than Michael and I can eat during the week. This mincemeat pie recipe helped use leftover goose and venison from previous dinners (seems most meats will do). It’s also a heck of a refreshing dish; the citrus zest and fruits harken back to Shakespearean feasts. Regardless your opinion on such pies, give this recipe a shot. It will delight and inspire you to consider other forays into winter seasonal cooking.

You’ll need: 1 Granny Smith apples, finely chopped; 2/3 cup raisins; 2/3 cup dried currants (I used cherries); 1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar; 1 oz. crystallized ginger, coarsely chopped; 3/4 cup shredded beef suet – I used a mixture of leftover meat (pork, goose, venison); 1/4 cup brandy (I didn’t have this); 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice; 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh lemon zest; 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh orange zest; 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice; 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg; 1/4 tsp ground cloves

Note: Pennsylvania is not a citrus producer, so far as I know. But such being the case, I feel it is okay to use such fruits from our warmer states, with moderation.

For the cornmeal crust: 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for dusting; 1/3 cup2 stone ground cornmeal; 2 heaping Tbs. sugar, plus extra for the crust; 1 teaspoon table salt; 8 ounces very cold unsalted butter; 2 oz. apple cider or juice; 2 ounces cold water; 1 egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water

Place all of the ingredients except the crust into the bowl of a food processor and pulse 8 to 10 times. Place in an airtight container and store in the refrigerator for one night before using. If you prefer a finer texture of mincemeat place the apples, dried fruit and suet into a meat grinder with a large die and grind. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the remaining ingredients. You may also finely chop the apples, dried fruit and suet by hand.

Place the flour, cornmeal,  sugar and salt into a large mixing bowl and whisk to combine. Grate the cold butter on the large side of a box grater directly into the dry ingredients. Work together with your hands until the mixture is crumbly. Add the cider and water and stir with a spatula to combine. Knead the dough 5 to 6 times and spritz with additional water if the dough is dry. Shape into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Roll out the dough on a piece of parchment into a 15 to 16-inch round, about 1/4 to 1/8-inch thick. Trim the edges with a pizza cutter. Carefully slide the rolled out dough, still on the parchment paper, onto an upside down half sheet pan. Spoon about 1 1/2 pounds of the mincemeat onto the center of the dough, leaving a 2 to 3-inch margin around the edge of the crust. Place in the oven and bake for 35 minutes or until the crust is golden. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 30 to 45 minutes before serving.

Food Alliance – partnership in Pennsylvania

Claire Murray's tractor waits for springAt the Pennsylvania Association for Sustainable Agriculture’s 18th annual Farming for the Future Conference, executive director Brian Snyder said, “For consumers to make free and informed choices about what kinds of foods support the health and well-being of our communities and the environment, they need a basis for evaluating marketing claims.”

“We want to give our regional farmers a tool to differentiate their products in that retail or food service setting,” Snyder also commented. “And we want to give citizens a better means to separate the marketing of food from the reality of production practices.”

Click here for the full press release on PASA’s partnership with Food Alliance for sustainable agriculture certification.

(Listed as PASA partners with Food Alliance)

For another article on Food Alliance certification, please read this Growing Produce article.

Sesame bread rings

Ate another bowl of zucchini soup for lunch today, accompanied by a slice of quiche – both of which spent yesterday thawing on the kitchen countertops. Halfway through February, my seasonal eating still depends on propping open the chest freezer lid and sifting through the rock-hard contents (wear a winter glove while doing this). Pieces of torn sesame bread rings helped sop up the soup and fill up my tummy.

Rowland Orr has a pre-dinner snack of sesame rings dipped in olive oilBread baking has largely filled the creative void of a season without fresh fruits and veggies from my backyard. I’ve enjoyed shifting the focus from bushels of peaches to different shapes of flour, water, yeast and salt. And although I’d like to think these baking practices come naturally, I must give thanks for the inspiration and guidance of Flatbreads and Flavors, by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid.

For Savory Sesame bread rings, you’ll need: 1 tsp dy yeast; 1 1/2 cups warm water; 3 to 4 cups hard white flour; 1 tsp salt; 1 egg whisked with 1 Tbs water for an egg wash; 4 to 5 tsp sesame seeds (I used more). Also! Get out your good olive oil and dip these in when done cooking. A delectable treat to enjoy as you prepare dinner or need a snack late afternoon.

To cook, dissolve the yeast in the warm water in a medium-sized bowl. Combine the flour and salt and add to the yeast, a cup at a time, stirring constantly in the same direction to help activate the gluten. When the dough will no longer take any more flour, turn it out ont a lightly floured surface and knead for 7 to 8 minutes, or until smooth and elastic. Clean out the bread bowl, lightly oil, place the dough in it, and cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel. Allow to rise until doubled in volumn, approximately 1 hour. (I place the bowl very close to our wood stove – but perhaps you will need to use a room in your house capable of staying above 65 degrees for this amount of time, perhaps your bathroom?)

Punch down the down and divide it into 4 pieces. On your bread board, roll each piece under your palms (or hold it in the air between your palms and let it hand down as you make your rope) into a cigar-shaped rope 24-36 inches long, depending upon the size of your baking sheets. Pinch together the ends of each rope to make a loop. Place the ka’kat rings on lightly oiled baking sheets, by shaping the loops into the traditional long oval shape (This recipe is from Israel) and fitting 2 side by side on each sheet. Cover and let rise for 20 to 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Brush each bread liberally with the egg wash. Sprinkle on the sesame seeds. Bake in the upper part of your oven for 15 to 17 minutes, until nicely browned; if the size of your oven and baking sheets permit, bake them side by side. If not, bake on 2 different racks and switch the sheets after 8 minutes. Cool slightly on a rack before serving. Serve with olive oil. Touch this to an herb blend also before you eat it, if you like, such as ground thyme.

Events in southeastern PA, Feb. 11 – 17

Feeling fine at 56 degrees today, I’m pumped to start spring plans. Here are a variety of events I’ll check out in the coming days:

sunflower from a farm in VermontFirst up, a short course on plants native to southeastern PA, to be held today, Feb. 11, from 1 to 3 p.m. at Mt. Cuba. As their education brochure describes the $25 class, “Foundation plantings often consist of invasive plants and are an ecological desert for wildlife habitat. Put the life back in your foundation plantings by using native plants. Do a landscape assessment and learn what shrubs, trees, and groundcovers are more environmentally-friendly.”

By the way, this evening I’ll be dining at Alba in celebration of a belated birthday. Owners Sean and Kelly Weinberg focus on creating menus from locally grown and crafted foods. I’ll report back on the experience. This BYOB restaurant is located in Malvern, and their phone number is: 610-644-4009.

Next up is a social evening with Stroud Water Research Center – check out the Wild and Scenic Environmental Film Festival to be shown tomorrow, Feb. 12, from 6:30 – 9 p.m. The Unionville elementary school auditorium hosts the event, which is sure to be a poignant, funny and heartbreaking display. I’ve attended a couple of these festivals elsewhere, and the films are not to be missed.

Finally, does electronic marketing and social networking flummux you? The Greater Brandywine Cultural Alliance will help you learn how to use these tool on Feb. 17 from 8:30 to 10 a.m. at the Chester County Art Association. RSVP to 610-696-8211 or info@brandwineculture.org. The location is 100 N. Bradford Ave. in West Chester. 

What makes people change?

force Amaryllis bulb - beautiful reminder of colorful life, in the midst of winterI suspect that you, dear reader, may not routinely chase sugar plum fairy fantasies about sustainable agriculture and food sovereignty in your Feastland dreams. Tropical sweet coconut rice for breakfast and brow-dripping curries for dinner topped my desires for a while, following a study abroad term in Sri Lanka. All to be finished off with the most perfect mango imaginable, preferably in a warm spring rain shower. Food to me was equal parts fuel for an active life and semi-fantasy forays into eating and social cultures different than those with which I grew up.

Salad, of all things, was the first meal of my reconsideration. Working to remove invasive plant species from the Colorado river corridor in southwestern Arizona forced my eyes into horizon-length stares at agricultural practices of that region. Craggy mountains gave way to plains of rock-strewn desert lands, then technicolor green swathes – like a mismatched rainbow drawing, lines of pink/gray marked next to green, the symmetry perfectly regulated by irrigation pivots. Each trip between work assignments, the lines would shift as patches were harvested by latino laborers, and other sections replanted. Occasionally, a foul smell would waft ahead of view, a sign of a failed crop for one reason or another. I could only imagine the barren supermarkets back in Boston and Philadelphia, Chicago and rural New York state – folks would have to prepare frozen peas in lieu of a crisp, iceberg salad.

another no-knead loaf from pop's fabulous recipeOur work drenched us in the salty sweat of chainsawing, lopping and otherwise yanking however possible on salt cedar plants. The same Colorado River feeding the nations salad greens productions was (and remains) severely impacted by the larger ecosystem problems this plant provokes and indicates. Suddenly, no matter what diet fad was in style at the time, I saw first hand how my salad lettuce was grown, and I realized I was asking too much of this Earth. Not only was excessive water needed to grow these year-round crops, but the laborers walked, hunched and sprayed who-knows-what, without protection. It impressed me, this crops system cycling in and out of its pink and green areas, water pivoting into evaporation for all the world like a showcase misty rainbow; it impressed me negatively.

Right, so what love-at-first-seed sight story am I telling? It was more than a year later before I dug up some backyard and planted my own lettuce. House plants saw me through the dark duration (bad solar orientation, apartment living). But what is important here is that I saw those agricultural practices, and I changed. Many trips to my local farmers market later, and several seasons worth of friendships with these growers, and I recognize my salad epiphany as just the tip of the iceberg (ha ha, sorry, had to put that in there).

At the PASA conference, small dinner discussion was made about what makes people change. I believe it can be any number of things. My companions thought only crisis forces change. As usual, we’re probably all right to some degree or another. I may have my stories of slow awakening to the various pleasures and responsibilities accompanying food (again, one of our daily needs). Others may require a daily pin prick Diabetes check-in before they recognize where modern agriculture has led them.

But my intention here is far from wagging fingers at Twinkie lovers (by the way, California peach growers claim that their fruits are pound for pound less expensive than this historic yellow rectangular sponge). I’d just like to continue writing these posts to discuss the various aspects of our food system, with the hopes that some part of the dialogue will prompt you to change as well. Wishing an emergency room visit on you won’t really get any of us to a better place, but for the sake of scary medical fact influence, poor women’s life expectancies are now declining due to modern, diet-related diseases.

Fingers can now be pointed – at the broader food system and its distribution of products. Soaring rates of obesity and disease due to diet are examples of  how we eaters have only experienced our food as a democracy based on constrained preference, not consumer choice. And as Raj Patel would remind us, we are not simply consumers of democracy, we are its proprietors.

With that, I’ll promise to link into ‘I eat therefore I am’, Descartes in a nutshell (must have been a pistachio – much easier than a walnut), next time. More suggested reading: The Snail (Slow Food’s national magazine about the movement); Manifestos on the future of food & Seed, edited by Vandana Shiva; and the 2008 Farm Bill – gotta know it in order to do better!

Food sovereignty and you

The Pennsylvania Association for Sustainable Agriculture conference ended yesterday, after four days of familial, and at the same time professional, discussions on food sovereignty. What is this and why should you care? I purchased 5 books and listened to 3 days worth of lecture/discussions to help further my comprehension of this philosophy. But for those who insist on soundbite answers to problems that seem out of reach or relation to their lives, here is a two-sentence explanation to start you off. Remember, you eat therefore you are. Please read beyond the first two sentences (and thank you Descartes for a philosophical statement that proves equally intriguing when applied to our world food systems).

a pregnant cow slurps away, as sun sets over a light snow fallFood Sovereignty is the “claimed ‘right of peoples to define their own food, agriculture, livestock and fisheries systems,’ in contrast to having food largely subject to international market forces.” (taken directly from the Wikipedia definition). You should care about this because you are more than a consumer; as a human being you have the right to safe, healthy and fair food – food which the currently corporately-owned food trade and political structures do not allow you to participate in beyond shelling out greenbacks – which, as we have all learned of bailout-late, do not provide accountability in our worldwide business exchanges.

Raj Patel, author of Stuffed and Starved, spoke at the conference with regard to what extent this right defines our lives. Not only should you be able to know where your food came from, but also how it was produced, how the workers were treated who cut and packaged that bite of spinach . . . and you should be able to enjoy that salad. The Slow Food organization rallied back in 1986 to the reality of pleasure human beings experience, and how everyone has the right to such. But how does this apply to your life of delicious chicken wings on football Sundays and artichoke dip at cocktail parties?

Consider a point Patel related to his admittedly food-loving audience: Americans eat twenty percent of our fast meals in the car. Who amongst us can truthfully profess a fondness for this situation? Has love for the open, albeit traffic jammed, road gone so far as to replace the value of a place setting, table and chair? Or would you agree you prefer your dinners, prepared on average in two-and-a-half minutes, to any more satisfying amount of time you could spend eating a meal with friends or family? Or alone for that matter? I know I adore a great breakfast, both having time to prepare real eggs and sitting at the table with family to prepare for the day together.

From elementary school up through television-as-educator media programs, we have learned that the food we eat directly impacts our bodies and minds, for better or for worse. So why, as obesity and diabetes rates soar, are we not able and willing to spend more money on such a broad-reaching necessity of life? Is it perhaps because the moola you earn funnels directly into fueling your work commute? Or paying your health insurance? Or paying for your child’s education? Why don’t we have a look at these patterns?

The questions, I believe, should stretch much farther than the routines we get through each day. Inherent in our food selection are the lives of innumerable farmers and laborers, both local and international, some also store front owners, some distributors. I may be able to shop at a health food type store, and purchase $6 organic cereal in lieu of $2 cereal. I have more access to fresh fruits and vegetables than very poor people who have no access to grocery stores, particularly in areas of our nation’s large cities. To some extent, my access implies more choice. But taking another look through the optical illusion land of grocery stores, gas food marts, health food stores, etc., we realize that my access and my choices are largely decided for me.

I don’t want a corporation to decide whether Peru or Ecuador will provide my apples during winter. Nor do I want a dairy conglomerate to decide what hormones are ’safe’ be convincing my legislator to agree with them upon payment. I also don’t want my country dropping food off for starving people elsewhere in the world without consulting international aid groups on how to get help where it is needed by working with regional food resources.

I do want a local food economy in which information is always available on who grew my carrots. I want food distribution systems that get fresh food to everyone. Everyone. I want eaters who value the food they put in their bodies three times a day to be willing and able to spend more than 9.8 percent of their income on it, ensuring a viable income for everyone in the business of feeding us. Sure, in 1929 we spent more on food. We didn’t have cable television bills, or red-eye flights to Vegas. But as the years have passed and luxuries have become necessities, it’s time to reconsider.

On to Descartes and the illusion of choice in my next posting . . . what began as a soundbite for mass consumption will most certainly extend into one of those full day feasts Jim Harrison embarks upon in his quests for pleasure. In the meantime, check out Via Campesina and pick up a copy of The No-Nonsense Guide to World Food, by Wayne Roberts for more background information.

Arctic arugula!

picking some spicy arugula leaves while balanced precariously on frozen rain-covered snowArugula has proved me wrong; after a slew of single- and teen-digit degree days about a week ago, I gave up on my cold frame. Reconciling myself to better insulation for next year’s winter greens crops, I neglected to even open the lid. Michael flopped it open, though, and arugula had grown new shoots. In fact, the regular little lettuce greens and chard plants also looked a bit more lively.

Today, Groundhog Day 2009, as the temperature heads past 40, past 50 . . . and on to who knows what spring-like high point, the cold frame lid is open and inviting sun rays into the soil and onto the plant leaves without plastic filtration. Arugula is certainly proving to be a hardy winter green.