It used to be that eggplant scared me from becoming a vegetarian. It’s bizarre texture didn’t deck the plates of my childhood enough to even reach a smidgen of fondness. But times have changed; I’ve seen the light, and it’s mostly the color of a great olive oil.
I took inspiration from a Grecian recipe for this most beautifully hued vegetable, and while I didn’t personally have any Phyllo sheets stashed in the freezer, a thinkly rolled pie crust on top and bottom, brushed with oil, did the trick well.
You’ll need: 3 1-lb. eggplants, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds; about 1 1/2 cups olive oil, divided; 3 medium leeks (white and pale green aprts only); 2 cups coarsely grated graviera or sharp white Cheddar (5 oz); 3/4 cup coarsely grated Kefalotyri or Pecorino Romano (2 1/2 oz); 1 1/2 cups walnuts (5 1/2 oz), chopped; 1 1/2 tsp ground cumin; 20 (12-by-7-inch) phyllo sheets, thawed if frozen.
Sprinkle eggplant with 1 1/2 tsp salt and drain in a colander 30 minutes. Pat dry. Heat 3 Tbs oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until hot, then fry eggplant in batches, adding 3 Tbs oil per batch and turning once, until tender and golden grown, 5 to 7 minutes total per batch. Drain on paper towels and cool to room temperature. Wipe skillet clean.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F with rack in middle. Halve leeks lengthwise and thinly slice. Wash and drain. Cook leeks in 2 Tbs oil in skillet over medium heat until golden, 7 to 9 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.
Chop eggplant, add to leeks with cheese, nuts, cumin and salt and pepper to taste.
Trim phyllo sheets into 9-inch square. Cover stack of phyllo with plastic wrap and a damp kitchen towel. Layer 10 sheets in a 9-inch square baking dish, lightly brushing each sheet with oil. Spread filling on top, then cover with remaining pnyllo, brushing each sheet with oil.
Cut several slits in phyllo (to vent) and bake until puffed and golden brown, 45 to 50 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes. This recipe appeared in Gourmet Magazine’s May 2008 issue.

























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