Eggplant and Walnut phyllo pie

It used to be that eggplant scared me from becoming a vegetarian. It’s bizarre texture didn’t deck the plates of my childhood enough to even reach a smidgen of fondness. But times have changed; I’ve seen the light, and it’s mostly the color of a great olive oil.

I took inspiration from a Grecian recipe for this most beautifully hued vegetable, and while I didn’t personally have any Phyllo sheets stashed in the freezer, a thinkly rolled pie crust on top and bottom, brushed with oil, did the trick well.

You’ll need: 3 1-lb. eggplants, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds; about 1 1/2 cups olive oil, divided; 3 medium leeks (white and pale green aprts only); 2 cups coarsely grated graviera or sharp white Cheddar (5 oz); 3/4 cup coarsely grated Kefalotyri or Pecorino Romano (2 1/2 oz); 1 1/2 cups walnuts (5 1/2 oz), chopped; 1 1/2 tsp ground cumin; 20 (12-by-7-inch) phyllo sheets, thawed if frozen.

Sprinkle eggplant with 1 1/2 tsp salt and drain in a colander 30 minutes. Pat dry. Heat 3 Tbs oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until hot, then fry eggplant in batches, adding 3 Tbs oil per batch and turning once, until tender and golden grown, 5 to 7 minutes total per batch. Drain on paper towels and cool to room temperature. Wipe skillet clean.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F with rack in middle. Halve leeks lengthwise and thinly slice. Wash and drain. Cook leeks in 2 Tbs oil in skillet over medium heat until golden, 7 to 9 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.

Chop eggplant, add to leeks with cheese, nuts, cumin and salt and pepper to taste.

Trim phyllo sheets into 9-inch square. Cover stack of phyllo with plastic wrap and a damp kitchen towel. Layer 10 sheets in a 9-inch square baking dish, lightly brushing each sheet with oil. Spread filling on top, then cover with remaining pnyllo, brushing each sheet with oil.

Cut several slits in phyllo (to vent) and bake until puffed and golden brown, 45 to 50 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes.  This recipe appeared in Gourmet Magazine’s May 2008 issue.

brrr!!! It dropped to 60

An friendly Idaho gardener informed me that 29 degrees greeting her a couple of weeks ago . . typical for September there. I am thrilled to be enjoying a longer growing season in these parts of Chester County, PA. But lower altitude and fewer mountains do not imply complacency towards tinkering with growing. No, I think once you have participated in the growth of a plant, be it Basil for a pesto sauce or squash for a hearty soup, you long to interact with them yearlong.

Two construction projects are underway these days at Cricket Thicket. The elder Mr. and Mrs. Wickes named this farm Carter’s Thicket and for the time being, I’ll show a bit of recognition for the chirper’s role in my daily interior playlist.

First, a coldframe. I found a truly inspiring design in a 2002 issue of Organic Gardening. However, due to the copious amounts of extra scrap piled in miscellaneous corners of this farm, I decided that purchases need not be made. On to improvisation! At left is a rather uneven board I came across, and below is what became of it:

Finally, the beginning of the frame: .

Then came some caulking, and then some side pieces were added from a larger stray plank board. Uh, yeah. That would be a good old hand saw used to make the cuts.

More pix promised when I get the window on top and finish the sides.

Second, a greenhouse. This we actually have materials for, as we deconstructed our previous one from Idaho and lugged its parts back East on the big move. Not too much, some PVC piping, corners from a Cabela’s wall tent and leftover UV-resistant plastic. I’ve dug out a location, and now need to come by some timbers to drill holes into for the pipes to stand in.

Give a little love to your Turtledove

An audience journeyed to the far realms of Africa and back last night, listening for the first time perhaps to the sounds of the banjo combine with that of the kora. Rhythms hopped, and at times slowly melted between African and Appalachia; the banjo actually comes from West Africa.

A griot, Mansa Sissoko narrated several ancient stories from his home country, Mali. His vocals and kora gave musical voice to stories that relate the importance of many rituals throughout human cultures: hunting, birth, death. The smell of West Grove, PA mushroom production wafted through the West Grove Friends Meeting House, and Jayme gave thanks to the farmers who also contribute to the necessities of everyday life everywhere.

Turtledove Folk Club hosts a musical performance each month. Check out their website for more information on the next performer, Spook Handy, who will play Saturday, October 25. Concerts run monthly through May. Last night Jayme Stone played banjo, Mansa Sissoko the kora and vocals, Grant Gordy played guitar, and Harris Eisenstadt blended in percussion.

Dressage at Devon

Sometimes it is important to step completely out of the relative comfort of everyday chores in order to support and help a friend. Yesterday was such a day, as Anne Moss and her beauty Goodness Grace were performing at Dressage at Devon. Here is a brief photo essay on preparing for such a competition – hold your cursor over the image for a description.

Dressage competitors on the whole were incredibly intent on perfection. It’s truly a wonder to me how person and animal execute so many routines and steps hopefully without even one prance out of beat or direction. Folks perusing the warm-ups commented dreamily about the previous night’s exhibition show: in the midst of the mist and drizzle (otherwise known as mizzle according to Ms. Moss), the riders and horses performed routines to a beat synchronous with their steps, evidently creating an entirely otherwordly show.

Out and about this week

There sure are a heck of a lot more people back here in Pennsylvania. The ease with which local food presents itself is a far cry from my previous residence in Idaho mountains. Great strides are currently being made in those higher altitudes, most notably in the development of an online local food co-op called Idahos Bounty. Orders are delivered every other week, with more frequency on occasion when bumper crops come in.

Roma tomatoes froma volunteer garden on the farm

But pulling into the roadside stands that dot the arterial car-paths around here, is not a straightforward purchase. Some of the items might be from elsewhere, maybe a state away, maybe several countries away. A unique resource presented itself to me just as I realized the need for an introduction to finding actual local food: Sovana Bistro.

It was that Friday night a couple of weeks ago when absolutely no leftovers could be transformed from third reincarnation to fourth. Given the 20 or so meals a week my partner and I regularly cook, it was time for a night out. To Sovana’s we went, feeling very hillbilly indeed with our chicken coop building workclothes still clinging to us.

We were actually seated, then treated to the most intense menu description from a waiter I have ever received. Any and every element on a dish was mentioned, and our choices were absurdly difficult. Ultimately I went for my usual when out: duck. I feel I owe this choice most of all to a fanatic French instructor who scolded me and a tableful of freshmen college students on a gustatory trip across southern France – we had all plucked the deep-fried fat off a duck dish served to us back then.

Or, who knows, I just felt like rich meat that night. The dish was listed under Sovana’s 100-Mile Diet menu. And here was where I experienced the local farm revelation. The waiter obliged me with some direction-giving, and I left that evening satisfied in tummy and mind.

Romas combined with gifted venison sausage - red sauce for a coming winter day!

Should anyone visit the Wood River Valley of Idaho in the near future, many a chef there are committed to purchasing local food for their recipes as well. Don’t miss: CK’s Real Food, il Naso, Rickshaw, Ketchum Grill, Glow, Vintage,

Ahh, comfort food

For me it will always be homemade pasta smothered in homemade pesto. Trace it to the Italian heritage from my mother’s side, or more directly to the summer dinners punctuated by my parents’ garlic infused hands . . . all I truly know is that whatever aversion I experienced as a silly kid is long gone. That would be 3 helpings I indulged in last night.

After punching the last computer bubble to complete my GRE testing in the fall of 2006, I decided on treating myself to the machine I’ve always lusted after. No batteries, no lubrication necessary, just a good old hand crank Imperia Noodle Machine. In hindsight, this particular purchase (accomplished at a Williams Sonoma store front in Boise, Idaho), appears to have set the tone for the upcoming experience with graduate school. I took the test in order to enter a Conservation Restoration grad program at the University of Idaho, and it took me but several months of classes to realize that indeed food and local agriculture were my true passions.

Long Live Pasta!

Poached to perfection

Not all that pesto we made yesterday went directly into the freezer. I expect many a meal will be graced by dabs of green splendor in the coming days. Here, for one, is an extraordinary breakfast: toasted baguette piece with pesto SPREAD on, then poached egg set on top. Delish!

To poach an egg: Pour about 2 tablespoons of vinegar into the poaching water (3/4 inch deep in nonstick pan, 2 inches deep in other pans), crack open eggs one at a time, into a small bowl; Bring the water to a boil, then reduce temperature to a gentle simmer, then spoon in eggs one at a time; Egg whites will start to cook; Poach the eggs for 3 minutes always at a simmer – vary the time according to how liquid you like your yolk; They’re done when the whites become opaque and feel firm to the touch; Turn off the heat and transfer to dish with a slotted spoon. EAT!

Here’s the heating situation:

We are living in a 3,000+ square foot stone house (built in 1760s) from now until we build a MUCH smaller abode on the land gifted to us by Michael’s brother. An oil furnace that pumps water through tall, cast iron radiators in each room is the house’s current heating system. We are not convinced this is the best way to spend money this winter, nor the most efficient use of resources from this farm.
So, the dilemma presents itself: how do we heat this home more efficiently this winter, and perhaps move anything we purchase to do so to our newly constructed home next year?
We are considering several options. One is to install an exterior wood burning furnace capable of tying into the existing furnace system. Garn and Greenwood offer such products. My parents’ home in NW Ohio has Garn heat and hot water, and while they might in retrospect run the pipes a little differently they are extremely pleased with that system. There are many such furnace systems out there, and as usual they are rated quite differently.
See here for a directory of all furnaces currently producing heat with water. I’d recommend considering emissions if you ponder such a purchase, and strongly urge you to choose a model that burns in a manner that doesn’t release much at all. The EPA’s most recent regulation of emissions from wood stoves occurred in 1990. Read here for an very brief overview of this regulation history and for links to the EPA’s much more in-depth texts.

What are we in for? An un-lined (pure stone and chinking) chimney ascends the eastern edge of the stone house. One possibility for depending less on the oil furnace is to purchase a free-standing wood stove, and pipe it out the chimney. After chimney inspection (which we already did to the tune of $250 – camera scan and all), stove, piping and pipe cap purchases and pipe install, we’ll probably have spent over $2,500.

Another option is to purchase an external furnace (such as mentioned above), which will involve the cost of the unit (probably $10,000 or so), a plate exchanger ($300), $12.50 per foot of underground piping from unit to interior furnace location, 2 circulators (stove to plate and plate to boiler, for $90/apiece), plumbing pieces inside the boiler, a concrete pad outside for the external furnace to sit on, contractor costs to drill a hole into the stone basement wall (YIKES!!!), and then our personal labor of wood acquisition.

Did I mention we recently purchased a 5 x 10 foot trailer, a log splitter and a chainsaw? Money appears to be evaporating quicker than the dew off a cactus out west. Perhaps we should just bite the bullet and pay for oil this winter?

Our ultimate goal is to consider using any system we come up with now in our future abode. While we plan to use geothermal for the house, we’ll need to bump up that temperature during cold months, and we’ll need to heat water. Do we bring along a free-standing stove that stood in the stone house, or do we disconnect the external furnace and bring that on over? Underground piping would stay behind (and install costs would hit us again).

Thoughts from anyone reading this are much appreciated.

Pesto Party!

Yes, yes, we all know that pesto is more of a true summertime thing. But with literally rows of mature bushes at hand on Inverbrook Farm, the spreadable temptation was too tasty to resist (or let go to waste). Claire was up for an entertaining afternoon this past Thursday and hosted an afternoon of trimming and mixing. I imagine it helped to know that a hard rain was in the forecast. Find recipes here, a pesto story here, and see our fun day below.

Two of the orange bushelful baskets provided us with 14 bags of freezable pesto at the end of the day. We left out the parmesan cheese and will add that as we defrost and use the pesto. A cookbook’s suggestion . . .

It was a bit daunting to trim the leaves off two baskets full. But a cheese plate saw the afternoon through.

Red Pepper Tart

Despite the bulk freezing I’ve done of chopped peppers, an abundant rainbow jumble continues to decorate my counter. Thus another pepper recipe. This can be frozen and eaten as a colorful breakfast sometime in January bleakness. It is from Roast Chicken and Other Stories, a great cook-by-an-ingredient cookbook.

For the pastry you’ll need: 1 scant cup all-purpose flour; 4 Tbs butter, cut into cubes (or grated if frozen); 1 egg yolk, a pinch of salt.

For the filling: 4 red bell peppers, roasted, peeled and seeded; 1/2 cup heavy cream; 6 egg yolks; 1 garlic clove, peeled and chopped; salt and pepper.

To make the pastry, add the butter to the flour and rub in. Add hte egg yolk, salt and enough water to form a firm dough. Chill for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Roll out the pastry as thinly as possible and use to line an 8-inch tart or flan pan. Prick the bottom with a fork, and bake in the oven for 15 – 20 minutes or until pale golden brown and cooked through.

Meanwhile, puree all the filling ingredients and pass through a sieve. Pour into the pastry case and bake at 325 degrees F for 30 – 40 minutes or until set.